Having problems with your Dell Latitude D505 Notebook ?

Dell Latitude D505 On/Off power button

\015 Hellomy dell D 505 is not powering up when I press the power button.It will sometimes work if I press the case and press the button at the same time. It is almost like a loose connection symptom.It is the same whether it is on battery or mains power.Is there a breakdown with illustrations as to how to check this out?regardsbeejaygee\015

Answers :

I had the same issue ... and after several attempts I finally figured out a solution that worked for me.

\015\012My Dell D505 worked fine for several years. Then, the display got\015\012broken so I sent it out to someone for repair. It worked fine for the\015\012first 6 months, but then I started having trouble turning it on. Over\015\012the next 6 months it got worse and worse.

\015\012When you pull up the plastic bezel that has the power button you will\015\012see a small board (DA0DM1TH8C1 REV:C) with actual power button plus\015\012LEDs for caps lock + num lock + scroll lock. I sprayed the switch on\015\012this board with contact cleaner, but it didn't make much difference. I\015\012located a supplier on the web who shipped it from Singapore at a low\015\012price.

\015\012This morning I installed the new board ... and it didn't make any difference. Still had trouble powering on.

\015\012After much grumbling and swearing I determined that if I pushed down on\015\012the board with my finger near the connector then the power button would\015\012function properly. It was pretty clear that the connector for the board\015\012was not staying fully in contact.

\015\012I took the laptop apart and determined the problem to be with an\015\012aluminum heat-sink that is under that board and covers many of the\015\012components, including the CPU. This is not a heat sink with fins, but\015\012is flat on top. The problem was that the corner of the heat sink was\015\012pushing the aforementioned board up and away from its mating connector.\015\012

\015\012I removed the heat sink (three screws) and did two things:

\015\0121. The aluminum heat sink is rolled down around the edges. In the area\015\012near the power board connector the edges were too high, preventing the\015\012connector from seating well. I used a metal file to file down the edges\015\012a bit in that area. I took off about 1/16th inch, although if you take\015\012off more it is not going to hurt anything.

\015\0122. I examined the heat sink on removal, and it seemed flat to me. There\015\012are screws in the problem area to keep that corner held down. Before\015\012reinstalling I bent that corner down a bit. Once the three screws were\015\012put back in place the corner did a good job of staying low, allowing\015\012the power board connector to stay seated.

\015\012It now works fine for me. I have turned the thing off/on a half dozen times just to celebrate.

\015\012I suspect that the aluminum heat sink got bent upwards slightly when\015\012they replaced the display board. There are some metal clips on top of\015\012the heat sink for holding one of the display cables.

\015\012However, I think that fundamentally this was a minor design flaw by\015\012Dell. In my case, even if the heat sink was completely flat the power\015\012board connector would not really seat well ... that is why I filed it\015\012down in that area. I think that the tolerances are too close in that\015\012area and over the years as things loosen up a bit the connection may\015\012become marginal, even for people who have never opened up their D505\015\012laptops.

\015\012I probably should have taken photos while I was doing this, but I didn't ... sorry.

\015\012Good luck,
I found a quite easy solution after reading the solutions in here.
\015\012First remove the center control cover as desribed here: \015\012http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/systems/latd505/sm/keyboard.htm#1119710
\015\012Then look for the board with the LEDs (DA0DM1TH8C1 REV:C). The\015\012 right srew of the two, which hold the board, is too long, so it doesnt \015\012fix the board with the connector properly. Wether you find a shorter one\015\012 which fits, you shorten the screw itself or you do it like I did:
\015\012I removed the screw and put three small plastic washers (those you use \015\012for mainboards usually) between the screw and the board. If you switch \015\012on the laptop now (if it won´t try pressing down the board at the right \015\012side a little bit) and enable one LED (e.g. Capslock) you can adjust how\015\012 strong to fix the screw by waiting for the LED to shine.
\015\012Install the center control cover again and it should work.
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