Having problems with your Toshiba Satellite A45-S151 Notebook ?
Cant find where the cmos battery goes in my toshiba satellite a45 s151 laptop
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\015\012Disclaimer: I’m a hobbyist, not a Toshiba-certified service tech, so\015\012the procedure I’m about to detail is based on the Toshiba maintenance\015\012manual for A40 Series laptops—there may be a shortcut method to\015\012accomplishing all this (though I’ve not found one).
\015\012Before you start, download a copy of the Toshiba maintenance manual for\015\012A40 Series laptops\015\012(http://tim.id.au/laptops/toshiba/satellite%20a40.pdf)—thanks for that\015\012link, parrotheadpc!
\015\012You might as well also order your replacement battery (Real Time Clock\015\012(RTC) Battery, Nickel Metal Hydride, DC3.0V 17mAh, Toshiba\015\012#P71035017110). The best deal I could find online in Oct 09 was at\015\012www.sparepartswarehouse.com for $25 (including shipping; FYI, they\015\012automatically ship 2-day air). I called every computer repair store\015\012(and Radio Shack) in our area, but couldn’t find anyone who carried\015\012this battery in stock.
\015\012Tools & supplies you’ll need:
- Precision screwdriver set—at a minimum, you’ll need a #0 Phillips\015\012head driver. Don’t try to use a #1 or larger screwdriver—you’ll only\015\012end up stripping a screw head (or two or three or ten) or at some\015\012point. If you don’t already have a set (they’re really useful for\015\012working on laptops), Sears has them for less than $15 (<$10 on\015\012sale). If you have a Harbor Freight Tools store in your area, you can\015\012also find a cheap set there. \015\012
- Pair of small needle-nose pliers (the precision screwdriver set\015\012at Sears includes one); I really don’t think that you’ll be happy with\015\012standard-size needle-nose pliers. \015\012
- A “micro” screw extractor (needed if you find that any screws are\015\012stripped; this could happen during original assembly or prior service\015\012work). I have the Craftsman screw extractor set (model 52157),\015\012available from Sears; the “M3” size extractor is just right for\015\012removing small case screws. This set’s not cheap (unless you get it on\015\012sale), so you may want to look for a less expense set that has the M3\015\012size in it. \015\012
- Power drill w/ adjustable chuck (for using the screw extractor).\015\012I used a full-sized cordless VSR drill, but if you have a VSR rotary\015\012tool with a chuck, that would be a lot easier to handle. \015\012
- Flashlight or good work light. \015\012
- Roll of Scotch “magic” tape (you’ll see why in a moment).
\015\012A word on “screw management”: You’re going to be removing a whole\015\012boatload of screws to separate the top half of the laptop shell from\015\012the bottom half—keeping track of the many screws (in different sizes)\015\012is a real pain. My way of handling this is to take a small piece of\015\012Scotch tape, fold over one end about 1/8” to make a tab (for later easy\015\012removal), and to use it to secure each screw in place as I remove it\015\012(with some exceptions, which I’ll mention as we go). For case screws\015\012that are inset in wells, a piece of tape over the top of the screw well\015\012will keep it in place. For exposed screws, you can usually loosely tape\015\012a screw in place after it’s been screwed out—just don’t push it back\015\012into the hole’s threads, as that will defeat the purpose of removing\015\012the screw. As you go through the procedure, if you find that the parts\015\012you’re trying to separate seem stuck together, you may have a screw\015\012that dropped back into place—just look for the likely screw, pull up\015\012the tape, screw it back out again, then put the tape back in place.
\015\012About stripped screw heads: You can hope that you won’t encounter any\015\012of these, but with over two dozen screws to remove, your chances are at\015\012least fair of having at least one stripped screw head—I recommend being\015\012prepared.
\015\012About cleaning out your laptop: While you've got it opened up, this is\015\012a good time to give it a blow-out with a can of compressed air--you may\015\012be surprised where you'll find clumps of dust hiding!
\015\012Here’s the procedure (citing the relevant pages of the Toshiba maintenance manual):
- Remove the main battery pack (p. 4-8). \015\012
- Remove the hard drive (p. 4-13). The covers is secured with both\015\012screws and plastic "snaps," so you'll need to use something with a thin\015\012blade to gently (!) pry it loose with after you remove the screws; I\015\012used one of the flathead screwdrivers from my precision screwdriver set. \015\012
- Remove the heat sink and CPU covers (p. 4-16)—just the covers,\015\012not the heat sink or CPU themselves. These covers are also secured with\015\012both screws and plastic "snaps."
\015\012Note: While you’re here, this would be a good time to take some\015\012compressed air and blow the dust out of the heat sink fins and CPU fan\015\012(remember to not overspeed the fan). \015\012
- Remove the optical drive (p. 4-20). I’m not sure that this step\015\012is really necessary, as I can’t see how the optical drive would affect\015\012the shell disassembly, but it’s easy to do—if nothing else it removes a\015\012lot of weight, and will make the laptop easier to handle later. Since\015\012the case holes have no threads, I just threaded these screws into the\015\012holes in the optical drive itself in order to keep track of them.
\015\012Note: Before reassembly, I gave the full system a thorough blow-out\015\012with compressed air; a lot of dust came out through the open optical\015\012drive bay, so that may be reason enough to remove it now. \015\012
- Remove the keyboard (p. 4-23). Do also remove the “keyboard hold\015\012plate” and “keyboard support plate” and set them aside; note how they\015\012are oriented, so that you can put them back in place correctly later.\015\012Be gentle when pulling out the keyboard cable from the mainboard\015\012connector—I used a side-to-side shimmy motion to ease it out. \015\012
- Remove the wireless LAN board cover and carefully disconnect the\015\012wireless LAN antenna leads (p. 4-28). I used the needle-nose pliers to\015\012disconnect the antenna leads from their mounting posts on the wireless\015\012LAN board—just pull straight up (gently!). Note that the black antenna\015\012lead connects to the post nearest the screen hinge, while the white\015\012lead connects to the post nearest the wrist rest. You do not need to\015\012remove the wireless LAN board itself, so just skip those steps. \015\012
- Remove the CD/DVD (audio) play button circuit board (p. 4-33).\015\012Disconnecting the thin ribbon cable connector looks scary, but it slips\015\012right out with a gentle tug. \015\012
- Remove the display assembly (p. 4-34). This is where you’ll go\015\012bugnuts keeping track of the screws if you’re not using my Scotch tape\015\012method! Note that by “display assembly,” we’re talking about the LCD\015\012screen assembly and the upper half of the laptop shell.
\015\012Note 1: In addition to the two screws show in figure 4-20 on p. 4-35,\015\012there are two other screws that need to be removed that I can't find\015\012mentioned anywhere in the manual. These screws are located next to the\015\012memory module bay (one "above" and one in the "top right" corner; "up"\015\012means toward the screen hinge); both have "B4" marked in plastic next\015\012to their holes.
\015\012Note 2: Disconnecting all the (tiny!) cable connectors in step #7 goes\015\012easiest with the small needle-nose pliers, grasping the plastic head of\015\012each connector and pulling straight back (I suspect that standard size\015\012needle-nose pliers will prove to have tips too thick for this delicate\015\012work). Whatever you do, resist the temptation to just tug on the wires\015\012to disconnect the cables!
\015\012Note 3: The display assembly has plastic "snaps" in addition to screws,\015\012so you may need to do a little gentle levering to remove it. \015\012
- Remove and replace the RTC battery (p. 4-43). You’ll need to be\015\012careful to maneuver the “insulator” tab around the ribbon cable for the\015\012LED board, but it’s manageable without removing the LED board. \015\012
- Reassemble the laptop in the reverse order of disassembly (hope you know where all the screws are!).
\015\012Note on reversing step #7 (CD/DVD play button circuit board): The\015\012connector socket for the ribbon cable is on the bottom of the board,\015\012inset from the edge. Consequently, I found that it was easier to\015\012reinsert the ribbon cable into the connector socket before putting the\015\012circuit board back into place. Also, because this ribbon cable doesn't\015\012have a hard plastic plug on the end, I had to gently (!) grip the\015\012ribbon cable with needle-nose pliers in order to reinsert it into the\015\012connector socket (which is just a thin slot, and somewhat hard to see\015\012while positioning the circuit board). Be careful to not put too much\015\012pressure on the ribbon cable--it's relatively fragile due to its\015\012thinness.
\015\012Note on reversing step #6 (wireless LAN antenna): The antenna leads are\015\012on the small side; while easy to position over their sockets on the LAN\015\012board, pushing them onto the sockets would be difficult to do with a\015\012finger tip. My solution was to take my needle-nose pliers, close them,\015\012then use the closed tip of the pliers to apply moderate pressure to the\015\012cable connectors until I felt them snap into place. Note that I did not\015\012grip the cable connectors with the pliers--I only used the closed tip\015\012of the pliers to apply the necessary pressure.
\015\012You should now be able to boot up the laptop (after setting the clock,\015\012of course)—unless, like the one I’m working on, there are other\015\012problems to fix…
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